"I like wines that are direct, with tension, a vertebral column, for both the reds and the whites". Romain Delhome

"This is an interesting newcomer to the ranks in the northern sector of Crozes-Hermitage, with vineyards in the communes of Crozes itself, Larnage, Gervans and Erôme. There are almost 11.5 hectares of Crozes across 20 plots,

Romain is the fifth generation; his great-grandfather Flavien Delhome had vineyards, while, on his mother’s side there were vineyards under her family in the shape of Severin Habrard, so there are two old roots at play here.

Father Gérald took over the domaine in 1993, and concentrated on apricots and vines, the grape harvest sent to the Cave de Tain. Son Romain came on to the domaine in 2018; he had worked locally at Gigondas and in the Ventoux at Chêne Bleu, as well as in Virginia in the USA. The cellar was built in 2019. The domaine is HVE (Haute Valeur Environnementale) registered, a green credential, and the 2022 harvest will be officially organic.

100% Syrah (average age 40 years) from south-facing sanded granite soils on Les Sourdets at 300 metres at Larnage next to the cellars, granite fragments on flat ground at bottom of Le Caire at Gervans, hand harvested, destemmed, pre-fermentation cold maceration at 8°-10°C "to seek red fruits, especially from Gervans", 20-25 day steel vat vinification at 24°-28°C, pumping overs, part vat emptying/refilling, raised 75% 3-10 year 228-litre & 600-litre oak casks (85% 228-litres, 15% 600-litres), 25% steel vat 11-12 months".

This is excellent Crozes Hermitage with good structure with what feels like perfect extraction - wonderful texture and depth. But the Boreal is ultimately all about the fruit, though, which is charmingly wild in character and quite dark. Blackberry, the beginnings of mulberry and a bit of liquorice in there too. A wonderful offering.