To quote Allen Meadows; ‘the quality of these wines is nothing short of phenomenal compared to the usual quality of the respective appellations’. Claude Marechal makes his wines as naturally as possible, taking his inspiration from his late friend Henri Jayer who he trained with early in his career. In common with Jayer he makes wines above and beyond the expectations of his terroirs. His wines are pure and sleek with vibrant fruit and great potential to age. In the vineyard ripeness is the watchword and the vines are maintained in order to maximise phenolic maturity every vintage whatever the conditions. No chemical fertilisers are used and the harvest is hand picked each vintage, Claude says he is usually the last in each appellation to pick which shows on the ripe fruited nature of his wines. After harvest the bunches are sorted by hand and gently de-stemmed before vinification using natural yeasts. The fermenting must is pumped over twice daily and once alcoholic fermentation is finished the wines are placed into oak barrels where they mature for between 10 and 15 months. From tastings of back vintages at the domaine it is clear these are wines that are built to age well. Claude has not changed his prices for the 2021 vintage.

Lovely small-estate, mineral, citrusy Chablis, just as it should be. Crying out for seafood or just good company.

The only thing ancient about this wine is the name - here is the new generation of Beaujolais-Villages Once tasted, forever conquered. Its creator is a genius: Jean-Paul Brun, a counter-conventional winegrower, has reinvigorated the reputation of Beaujolais wines. Of a quality equal to the wines of Côte de Beaune, its winery, Terres Dorées, offers excellent quality for the price.

Red Declicious apple come clothed in a berryish, fruity guise. The smooth, rounded palate also homes in on Red Delicious ripeness, layering rich fruit onto berry charm and citrus brightness. This wine is easy, generous, bold and fruity, with a dry finish. Anne Krebiehl MW 90/100

Family estaste based in Beine near Chablis, with 50 hectares under vine. 100% Chardonnay fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks to retain freshness. Classic Chablis. Pebble dry, floral and vibrant. Great seafood wine, particularly oysters.

Remi Jeanniard’s neighbours say that he and his wife are always in the vineyards; even on 2nd January, they were seen out pruning the vines. Remi has just over 7 hectares of vines in and around Morey-St-Denis. The vines are much older than average, with all of his Vieilles Vignes village bottlings being at least 50 years old. This gives a natural concentration to the wines which are both well structured and elegant. Dried fruits, figs, cherries, currants, and violets. Exciting. Less plush than the jeunes vignes, but more vibrant and intense. Supple tannins.

St Aubin has got to be one of the best value wines in Burgundy. This is a full-bodied, generous and precise wine. Easily accessible, it is the perfect accompaniment for aperitifs or a simple cooked meat (charcuterie), poultry or fish dishes.

Fruity that expresses a beautiful aromatic complexity, and which presents a beautiful balance carried by a great freshness.

100% Chardonnay grown on limestone slopes in the best areas of the Macon. Made by the excellent Buxy cooperative, in stainless steel tanks then bottled after several months on lees. Floral and citrus notes, mouthwatering acidity and lovely long flavour. A superb introduction to White Burgundy this overdelivers for its price.

This excellent white Burgundy comes from the intermediate clay/limestone slopes in the commune of Montagny. Very complex aromas on the nose, with successive fruity, floral and mineral hints, with particular menthol and lemon overtones. A full-bodied and rich wine with amazing finesse and delicate aromas.

Lemony, bright fruit, with steely acidity. Pure and balanced.

Morgon offers a fuller expression of Beaujolais and takes on Pinot Noir-like maturity with a few years bottle age. A palate of juicy red fruit is introduced with floral aromas on the nose of rose and peony with flecks of cracked black peppercorns. The mouthfeel is fleshy with velvety tannins. Try with barbequed sausages or a fruity Moroccan tagine.

The cheerful wines of the Mâconnais befit the sunny disposition of its gentle slopes, its warm terracotta rooftiles and the rhythmic chirping of cicadas on summer evenings. This is an excellent entry-point to white Burgundy: soft and rounded Chardonnay showing green apple, lemon oil and almond notes. Unoaked to let the purity of the fruit shine through. This has a strong affinity with roast chicken and turkey.