Properly serious food wine, a Michelin-star classic! Parker 92 Aromas of almond paste, green orchard fruit, citrus oil and pastry cream introduce the latest example of Billecart's NV Brut Sous Bois, a bottling that's based on the 2009 vintage. The oak influence is much less pronounced than was the case with some of the early renditions of this cuvée, and it's really going from strength to strength, revealing a medium to full-bodied palate that's broad-shoulder and structured, with lively underpinning acids. Jancis 17/20 This new cuvee is all vinified in oak but hasn't a hint of obvious oak on the nose. Lovely quality of fizz. Brooding and intense. There is marked density here and excellent balance and persistence. As usual, we are not told on the back label how old this blend may be, just that it is 'respectfully composed' of the three Champagne varieties. But it's impressive wine and I suspect it will not be cheap. Recommended. Edge of green on the nose here. Steady bead. Really quite rich and intense. Quite a meaty nose – but then food smells are coming in from the 67 Pall Mall kitchen! Mathieu Billecart suggests Tete des Moines or Comté as a food match or mushroom risotto ‘but the mushrooms have to be in season’. Lots of impact.

An opulent Champagne with the perfect balance of freshness and generosity, from the smallest and arguably the best of the Grande Marques. The Brut Réserve NV is a radiant pale gold colour with fine, persistent bubbles. The nose is characterised by complex pastry aromas, with an opulent combination of ripe apricot, mango, greengages, dried fruits, pistachio and almond. The palate begins with a silky-smooth sensation, developing into ripe fleshy apricot, melon and enticing plum pastry notes and delicate spice. There is perfect balance of freshness and generosity.

An opulent Champagne with the perfect balance of freshness and generosity, from the smallest and arguably the best of the Grande Marques. The Brut Réserve NV is a radiant pale gold colour with fine, persistent bubbles. The nose is characterised by complex pastry aromas, with an opulent combination of ripe apricot, mango, greengages, dried fruits, pistachio and almond. The palate begins with a silky-smooth sensation, developing into ripe fleshy apricot, melon and enticing plum pastry notes and delicate spice. There is perfect balance of freshness and generosity.

100% Carignan from 80 year old vines. Complex floral aromas. On the palate the fruits, such as raspberry and morello cherry, are crunchy and fresh. There is also a very strong stony/mineral feeling. The finish is long and pure. A vibrant wine.

Charles Heidsieck Blanc de Blancs is a pale, crystalline gold colour. The nose is characterised by aromas of mature Chardonnay; white peach, candied citrus with notes of lime, honeysuckle and fresh hazelnuts giving way to subtle hints of tangerine and lemon. On the palate, the Blanc de Blancs bears all the hallmarks of a Charles Heidsieck Champagne: boldness, generosity and elegance. Embracing yet light, it displays appealing mineral, slightly salty, iodine notes, and has a silky, creamy texture – unexpected from a Chardonnay – that leaves a lasting impression.

mature and complex NV

This is the most grown up Cornish Point yet. It has all the classic components (vibrantly fruited, voluptuous and rounded mouthfeel...), but with a structural complexity we have rarely seen before. Indulgent but serious tannins demand a thoughtful conversation in this 15th rendition. Baritones and altos all in harmony leading to a crescendo of a finish.

Intense nose of real concentration. Vibrant and jewelly – like essence of Central Otago but with a drier finish than many. Still very youthful and savoury. Great stuff! 2020 Vintage Jancis Robinson MW

A classic Northern Rhône Syrah, aged for 24 months in 10% new oak barrels. Full of dark fruits, black pepper and toasty spice.

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Not to detract from their authentic Jura heart, the two Pelican whites - Chardonnay and Savagnin - offer an instantly lovable journey into Jura style for those wary of oxidative surprises as both are made 'topped-up' rather than in oxidative style and with a clear salute to the heritage of their grand Burgundian owner. On the nose a Meursault-esque reductive whiff, ozone and saline, tempered tempting posh new oak; even before a sip these are out and proud posh wines. The Savagnin is wild, vegetal in a fine garden/herb garden sense, salty and zesty and oddly sweet mango and hot straw, almost Savennieres-like with its broad back, whack of acid and suave new-oak integration. Chardonnay smells like top end Bien Nacido but unfurls into Jura idiom with fine acidity, limpid lift, seashells and citrus. Both, quite frankly, nicely-priced for such a grand, fascinating and extraordinary wines. I'd 100% recommend both - try them together! jancisrobinson.com 17.5/20

Mahogany colour with greenish hues, a sign that this is a very old wine. Intense on the nose, with remarkable complexity and breadth, with layered aromas of wood from its ageing in barrel and notes of dried figs, snuff, white prunes and walnuts. The palate reveals the fullness of a great old port wine, with never-ending flavours that reveal how long it has aged in wood, such as spice and dried fruit, wrapped in fresher notes that culminate in a unique and endless finish.

Le Due Porte is 540 metres above sea level. Budbreak is later here, often avoiding issues with late frosts and snow. Ripening is slow and constant. The soil profile preserves humidity; important when making a wine such as Brunello that does not contemplate irrigation. Alberese has high levels of calcium carbonate which favors acidity, aided and abetted by the slower ripening and later harvest due to the exposition and altitude. We generally pick Le Due Porte as much as two weeks after our vineyards in Castelnuovo dell’Abate and are often amongst the last in Montalcino to harvest. The grapes develop organoleptic complexity from that extra hang-time and from the pronounced difference between day and night temperatures. In fact the altitude guarantees extreme thermal excursion even in hotter years which is wonderful for aromatic development. Over the last two decades we have seen, year after year, a pronounced character emerge in the fruit from this vineyard, a wine that maintains the typical structure of a Brunello vecchio stampo and epitomises finesse and elegance."

Lionel Comelade produces this stunning wine from ancient vine Macabeu and Grenache Gris grown on amazing black and white schist soil vineyards between Estagel and Latour de France in the Roussillon. Both white grapes were harvested later in the season in 1990 with high sugar levels. The grapes were partially fermented in concrete vats and then neutral brandy was added to stop fermentation and keep natural sweetness in the wine. Then the wine was passed to second use oak barrels and left in the cellar for 32 years before bottling (to order). No ‘topping up’ of the barrels occurred in the 33 years. The wine is tremendous, possibly surpassing the 1988. It is ‘ambre’ in colour. A bright, wild nose with orange rind, orange oil and warm spices. The palate is thrilling with great complexity and depth with thrilling, wild acidity which really charms. Astonishing and quite unique. The wine is one of the best value fortified wines in the world. 33 years of age, so interesting and delicious. A steal at this price. please note: The photo is of a different vintage.

The Selbachs have been cultivating Riesling vines in the Mosel since 1661. Today, Johannes Selbach and his wife Barbara run the estate, now one of the leading producers in the Mittelmosel. There are 10.6 hectares of vineyards including holdings in Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, and Graacher Domprobst. The grapes are handpicked and then fermented in traditional large oak barrels. The emphasis here is on finesse and purity of fruit, producing supremely elegant Kabinett and Spätlese wines as well as powerful, concentrated Auslese wines.

This Claret is fresh and balanced. The blend is Merlot-based and the wine is aged in French oak barrels for 12 months, giving a nice aroma of spice and wood smoke. The palate is fleshy with a hint of plum, the tannins fine and firm, leading to a generous finish. Drink now to 2036

The 2022 is an even more serious and dialled-back incarnation than usual; a crisp, racy but intense blend of 88% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre and 2% Grenache Blanc. Mourvèdre provides a salinity, which counteracts the juicy peach and red berry fruit of the Grenache beautifully; a light touch of smoke and herb atop some clear, fresh raspberry and strawberry characteristics, make for a wine of allure, vitality and grip. This exquisite Rosé makes a perfect summer aperitif, although it is also robust enough to partner a variety of summer fare.

A pure, fresh and approachable Barolo from talented winemaker Gian Luca Colombo. Award-winning winemaker and consultant Gian Luca has a tiny 4 hectare of vines and whose winery is located in his garage (literally a garagiste producer) in the small northern Barolo commune of Roddi. He works organically in the vineyards and has a low interventionist approach in the winery the absolute key being to allow the vineyards and vintages to show their individual characteristics in the bottle. The grapes for his Barolo come from the Bricco Ambrogio cru in Roddi itself, Roere di Santa Maria, and the noted cru of Bussia, all harvested in October and maturing for at least 18 months in Austrian oak before a further 3 months in clay amphorae. This quite simply has to be among the most approachable and enjoyable young Barolos we have tried and although has decades left in it yet is a pleasure to drink now. Intense aromas with great depth and concentration of pure fruit with slight, lifted floral and minerally notes. The palate is fresh and smooth with loads of juicy, ripe fruits, fine elegant tannins and a long length. "Pale orangey garnet. Heady, complex nose suggests bonfires overlaying pungent fruit. Fine, tamed tannins still definitely present. Appetising dry (but not drying) finish". 17/20 jancisrobinson.com

A beautiful and pure expression of young Nebbiolo from one of the most exciting winemakers in Italy. After Gian Luca completed his Masters in Viticulture and Oenology after 11 years of study and worked as a wine consultant across Italy in 2011 he started his own small winery in the heart of his native Langhe. Within 3 years he won the Gambelli award for Young Winemaker of the Year. His small Segni di Langa estate is located in Roddi in Barolo country and working sustainably he takes a very minimal interventionist approach allowing each vintage to showcase itself. Making his wines in the 'garage' beneath his house he typifies the small scale, high quality, personal style of winemaking. Roddi, 220 m. South./South East facing. Two small vineyards planted by Gian Luca to Pelaverga Piccolo. Fermented wild and raised in clay Amphora. Something really rare! Verduno Pelaverga is the smallest DOC in the Barolo region in the far north, where the indigenous variety Pelaverga Piccolo grows. Quite a light colour, pale but brilliant and bright and oh-so fragrant with floral aromas dominated by roses, violets and super pure raspberry - both the berry and the leaves. Vibrant, charming and simply a wonderful, curious drink.

The young, dynamic duo of Giulia and Valentina Malesani (hence the name `Giuva`) are situated north of Verona in the Val Squaranto. Planted at about 300m, the vines surprisingly face north and west, giving the wines incredible freshness and crunchy red fruits. This has flamboyant jammy notes on the nose, then great structure on the palate with expressive, juicy berries and ripe cherries. It`s meaty and earthy, with spicy and jammy undertones. 95 points

After Gian Luca completed his Masters in Viticulture and Oenology after 11 years of study and worked as a wine consultant across Italy in 2011 he started his own small winery in the heart of his native Langhe. Within 3 years he won the Gambelli award for Young Winemaker of the Year. His small Segni di Langa estate is located in Roddi in Barolo country and working sustainably he takes a very minimal interventionist approach allowing each vintage to showcase itself. Making his wines in the 'garage' beneath his house he typifies the small scale, high quality, personal style of winemaking. Magliano Alfieri village, 290m, 88y-old vines. Roddi village 200-250m, 45 to 60y-old vines. Part of this wonderful Barbera d'Alba comes from a vineyard by Gian Luca's house. The wines has so much lovely fruit and richness with such vibrant freshness. It isn't in the least bit 'blockbuster'. No heaviness, no 'make up'. Simply a beautiful drink that delivers sheer class and great pleasure. Not blockbuster, but it is knock-out good.